So it was some time ago I realised that it was looking increasingly likely that I would be by myself for Christmas. All the Germans were leaving and for a while I didn't quite know what to do. So I decided to get a midget... Wait no that wasn't it... In general I'm not a huge fan of Christmas but I figured it would probably be better if I wasn't alone. Ah yes that was it, there was Britta. Who to my knowledge at the time was wandering somewhere in the south island woofing. Woofing is.. I don't know what the acronym stands for but it's basically where you work for bed and board. Anyway I tried to get in contact with her a couple of times ands failed. Called and text etc. Then I found through the amazing medium of facebook I found out that she was down in Stewart Island working in a restaurant. The most remote place in New Zealand. An hour boat trip off the south coast. So I swiftly made plans to head down that way. Which was a bit of a trek, at this point I was in Christchurch. Quite a bit away from Stewart island. Took me close to ten hours of a trip to get to the port where the ferry goes from. I must admit on the bus on the way down I was a bit worried about the whole affair. I hadn't seen Britta in a long time and I was a small bit afraid it was going to all be a bit awkward. When I got off the boat to the island I was greeted by Britta and her fellow restaurant workers and cookies. If this wasn't enough to allay my fears later I went to the pub with them where did not have to pay for a single drink. The owner of the restaurant, which is called Church Hill by the way and he is called Gary, is one of the most generous people I've ever met. A gracious host. After the pub closed he said we'll have to go back to Church Hill. For some reason I was a bit behind them on the walk back. And here I shall describe an incredibly surreal scene. We trudge up the hill to the restaurant, coming to overgrown path that leads to the front door, a few unkempt trees and ferns reach across, looking mildly threatening in the darkness. Emerging from the path, you see the restaurant, the flickering light of the fire through the window. There is music playing. to fully get the strangeness of the scene you need to know the song. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1SEd6Oyn0M. Inside the restaurant in the main dining area the tables have been pushed aside and the there's people dancing. The large fireplace is at the center of the room. Some candles have been lit and the light of the fire makes silhouettes of the dancers. To add even more to atmosphere the restaurant's Frisian chef Styhze dances in a style that I would compare to Bill Bailey. There is woman from the pub alternating between cackling in the corner and dancing around the room. I'm told to help myself to beer from the fridge and also we're allowed to smoke. This all went on to about 5 in the morning, with the music varying between Bob Dylan, Pink Floyd Johnny Cash and just about everything else you can imagine. It was one of the coolest experiences I have had here thus far.
So I spent 5 days down in Stewart island, with the hospitality of Gary never wavering. Spent the few days in the company of the lovely Delphine, Bernadette and Britta. Was even invited to Christmas dinner with them, which was lovely. How many of you got your Christmas dinner done by a professional chef?
I thoroughly enjoyed my time on the island, it was like stepping out of the world for a few days. No phone reception and internet so dear it's impractical. The island itself is mostly wilderness aside from the little settlement of Oban. My excursions into said wilderness were limited at best, just some short walks. Could you blame me? Great company and beer just down the road from my hostel. The dining room in Church Hill with the fire going, after the customers have all gone home is one of the most comfortable places I've had the pleasure of being. So I whiled away my evenings on Stewart Island there talking away with the wonderful Church Hill girls. Also must give a mention to Sythze who I only met a couple of times but enjoyed his company quite a bit. An entirely unique character, who has given me some new music to get interested in. So yeah my Christmas was great. If any of you Church Hill people ever find your way to my little blog a very big thanks goes out to you. You provided a haven for a freeloading Irishman such as myself.
